Bar Pilar chef Jesse Miller takes the umbrage one step further: He calls Feb. 14 “the most overrated day in dining.” That’s why Pilar offers an annual “anti-Valentine’s Day” menu with offal dishes, bitter cocktails, heavy music and “just treating everyone like it’s a normal” day, he says, “because it really should be.” Some couples go every year because they’re in on the joke, while others just show up because of the date and are unaware of the “celebration.”

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